
If he is successful on Annapurna, Viesturs would become the first
American to climb all 14 of the world's highest peaks without the use of
bottled gas.
There, for decades now, wildlife buffs have without serious incident
viewed in close proximity grizzlies feeding on returning salmon. Even by
Hakkoda-san standards, this is a big season. A wobbly few seconds later,
much to my delight, I'm cruising downstream.
Ed Viesturs and his teammates will begin daily dispatches on their
arrival in Nepal this week.
But recently the domestic obsession with ski culture has begun to wane,
and Japanese ski areas are hoping that foreign visitors, drawn to the
abundant snow, will keep the lift lines full.
The grizzly, a female, absolutely knows we're here.
"I have had the privilege to enjoy this once-in-a-lifetime experience
six times now," Viesturs concluded, "and it never loses its magic.
Ed Viesturs clearly loves to climb high, and he's clearly ready for what
may be the biggest challenge in his life. The Sukayu Onsen Hotel, our
base camp, is a rustic old lodge renowned for its cavernous onsen, or
"hot-spring bathhouse," which is said to accommodate a thousand
people.
Then I hit something under the snow and rocket into an embankment
face-first.
The North Face of Annapurna.
Viesturs ended up escorting Chin down to base camp on summit day as Chin
was suffering from a high altitude edema, which can be life
threatening.
Think in terms of a few coastal and inland forays linked by short sea
cruises. The ice cliff above Camp I.
The northeast flanks of the mountan loom above base camp.
"Now, I'm completely content," Viesturs says, clearly enjoying the
coffee and the other comforts of being home after six weeks in the
Himalaya. But the chance that they might rouse themselves at any moment
is what makes the Tongariro Crossing such an adrenaline-charged
hike.
Then something went wrong. Base Camp and the Nilgri Peaks.
They can wait one more night but then will have to either go up or go
down.
Ed nears the top of an unusually long ladder section in the Khumbu
Icefall. Camp I on Cho Oyu and the entire route above. There's an
itinerary, but you're in charge of it.
"Veikka and I weren't concerned about altitude, even during those
waiting days at high camp," Viesturs said. "A smooth ceiling is real
important to prevent dripping," says David Butler, owner and chief guide
for Maine Multisport.
Fire roads, old stagecoach routes, logging tracks-there are potentially
millions of miles out there just waiting to lead you to your new
favorite trailhead or river put-in.
"Here, the team has spent all this time in preparation for the summit,
fixed rope, put in the route, and Sylvio turns back without hesitation.
So when it came to planning his family's big summer escape, the Greek
Islands obviously topped the list. Grizzly bears are the reason we've
come, but there's abundant wildlife to see among the big timber, and
bright green grasses of this wild coast.
To keep from being blown off high ridges, he had to lie flat on
horizontal ground and self-arrest with his tools in hard ice. To this
day Lafaille's retreat from Annapurna is considered perhaps the finest
self-rescue ever performed in the Himalaya.
" The objective danger that had turned them back twice before just
wasn't there.
"But even coming down wasn't easy," Viesturs said.
She lifts her head to watch us for a few seconds, and, seemingly
unconcerned, goes back to foraging, ripping the top half off each clump
of sedge with a graceful movement of her giant head.
Received on Sat Jan 06 2007 - 22:36:20 EST